We all know now that Argentina can produce
some very fine wine, most of it red. I was certainly enthused by many of
the wines I noted in Great value from
Argentina. Wines of Argentina's energetic representative
in the UK, James Forbes, who is leaving to seek other challenges at the
end of September, arranged the following tasting of some of Argentina's
superstar wines in London in April at the Gaucho restaurant in Swallow
Street that has become the unofficial Argentine Wine Embassy. The wines
had been selected in Argentina, where a panel of tasters whittled 124
possible 'Super Reserve' candidates down to just over 40.Of course all
of us could argue with their choice but there were many very good wines
here and some that were truly excellent (search for 18 and 17.5 below).
The many British tasters were asked to vote for their top
three wines and these are the results:
Bodega Chacra, Cincuento
y Cinco Pinot Noir 2008 Patagonia
Achaval Ferrer, Finca Bella Vista
Malbec 2007 Mendoza
Andeluna Cellars, Grand Reserve Cabernet Franc
2005 Mendoza
closely followed by
Trapiche, Adriana
Venturin Single Vineyard Malbec 2006 Mendoza
Alta Vista, Alto 2006
Mendoza
Catena Zapata, Adriana Vineyard Malbec 2005
Mendoza
I suspect that the Pinot
Noir won so many votes partly because it was so novel and distinctive. I
think it's a very good wine and look forward to continuing to monitor
the progress of this estate with its connection to Sassicaia in Tuscany,
but I do wonder whether it would show quite so well in a line-up of
Pinots.
The wines are listed below alphabetically by producer
(sur)name.
Achaval-Ferrer, Bella Vista Malbec 2007
Mendoza 16+ Drink 2010-14
Lightly charred nose. Then a little
tight and tart but overall good fruit that spreads all across the palate
and then rather a chewy finish.
Achaval-Ferrer Malbec 2008
Mendoza 16+ Drink 2009-12
Lively, well balanced, very toothsome
and seems less reductive than most? Gentle, loose, though admittedly not
trying as hard as many to be super-ripe. Just a little green on the
finish. Very similar to the Viñalba Malbec but a little more muted.
Alta Vista, Alto 2006 Mendoza 16 Drink 2010-15
Naughty heavy bottle. Pretty volatile and porty! Then quite chewy. Hot
finish. Not really integrated.
Andeluna, Grand Reserve
Cabernet Franc 2005 Mendoza 16 Drink 2009-12
Naughty heavy
bottle. Fresh nose, less ripe than the Benegas version. More Bordelais
in fact. Then great sweetness on the palate. This reminds me a bit of
that Valdivieso Chilean Cabernet Franc. A bit chewy and awkward on the
finish. Modern and just a little confected.
Atamisque,
Reserve Malbec 2007 Maipu 16 Drink 2009-13
Naughty heavy
bottle. Interesting blend of freshness, weight and cumin spice. Very
sweet, soft start and then a bit of vital spark in the form of acidity.
Slightly drying finish mars this unfortunately.
Benegas,
Libertad Vineyards Syrah 2006 Mendoza 17.5 Drink 2009-12
Sophisticated nose with good oak management. Sweet start but reined in
by some leatheriness. Very complete. Utterly hedonistic but in balance.
And does taste of (hot-climate) Syrah!
Benegas, Libertad
Vineyards Cabernet Franc 2005 Mendoza 17.5 Drink 2010-15
Fresh
nose and then Andean sunshine ripens the whole thing up to a notch above
any Cab Franc that has so far come my way. Freshness and real minerality
on the finish. In fact it reminds me even more of a good Bierzo than any
Cab Franc I can think of. Very clean and refreshing.
Luigi
Bosca, Icono 2006 Mendoza 15 Drink 2010-12
Naughty heavy bottle
(very!). Spicy nose and lots of acidity on the palate. Thick and a
little sludgy - and I find the acidity really uncomfortably
unintegrated.
Callia, Gran Callia 2006 San Juan 14.5
Drink 2009-11
Naughty heavy bottle. Valle de Tulum blend of Syrah
with Malbec, Tannat and Merlot. A bit hot and rustic. I do wonder
whether this area isn't just too hot for fine wine?
Carinae, Prestige 2005 Mendoza 17.5 Drink 2008-13
Naughty
heavy bottle. Quite subtle and interesting. Certainly very well
balanced. So melded! Lots there for the money.
Catena
Zapata, Catena Alta Malbec 2006 Mendoza 18 Drink 2011-17
Admirably, no naughty heavy bottle!!! Toasty, low key, very different
form the norm. Much skinnier but so much more of the appeal. Lots of
lively acidity and very Bordeaux. Bone dry on the end . Bravo! I do
think this leads the way. But it's very different from almost all its
peers.
Catena Zapata, Adrianna Vineyard Malbec 2005
Mendoza 17.5 Drink 2011-16
Naughty heavy bottle. Very
sophisticated, restrained nose. Much drier (as opposed to sweet) than
most of its peers and with lots of fresh acidity though good, quite
complex fruit. Just a little angularity at the moment but this is
clearly built to develop, which not all of them seem to be.
Chacra, Cincuenta y Cinco Pinot Noir 2008 Rio Negro 16 Drink
2010-14
Very rich, warm Pinot aromas. Sweet start and then notable
bracken flavours and lots of acidity. Not sweet and mellifluous - a
rather untamed version of Pinot, but certainly not too sweet or
confected. Dry finish. Earthy and astringent.
Chacra,
Treinta y Dos Pinot Noir 2008 Rio Negro 16.5 Drink 2011-15
Relatively simple Pinot aromas and smoother textured than the wine
above. Still far from classic but less aggressive.
Don
Cristóbal 1492, Triana 2006 Mendoza 16 Drink 2008-10
Ripe
and scented. Very, very sweet! Soft and attention-grabbing in typical
Napa Cabernet style. Not the most refreshing.
Fabre
Montmayou, Gran Reserva Malbec 2007 Luján de Cuyo 17 Drink
2009-13
Mellow, very Argentine-vineyard flavours but with Bordeaux
structure - a pretty winning combo! Tea leaves and interest and
excellent balance. Good for food? No heat.
Zuccardi, Zeta
2006 Mendoza 17.5 Drink 2009-13
Thick, sweet, rich, a little
heavy but with that moustache breathing authenticity into it. Savoury
finish. Well done! The blend works really well - not too sweet. Velvety
texture.
Decero, Mini Edición Petit Verdot 2006
Agrelo 17 Drink 2011-15
Super-ripe Petit Verdot is no bad
thing! Very rich and ripe yet scented and in good appetising balance.
Strong black fruits aromas. Could be a useful educational tool for those
trying to get to grips with Petit Verdot. Powerful tannins still!
La Chamiza, Martin Alsina 2006 Luján de Cuyo
17.5 Drink 2008-13
Naughty heavy bottle. Not much nose. Very sweet
and round. Utterly flattering and charming with real transparency and a
certain floral character. Hides its alcohol well. Finishes with great
vitality. Beginning, middle and end.
Flichman, Dedicado
2006 Mendoza 16 Drink 2011-13
Naughty heavy bottle. Light nose
with lots of acidity, even a little bit of greenness but it IS
refreshing! Chewy end. Uncomfortable at the moment.
Flichman, Paisaje De Tupungato 2006 Tupungato 15.5 Drink 2010-14
70% Malbec plus Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Full, sweet and
pretty heavy. A bit tarry. Chewy tannins on the finish. And a certain
syrupiness and very high volatility.
La Guarda, El Guardado
Syrah 2008 San Juan 14 Drink 20??
46rom Tulum, the Syrah
hotspot. Volatile. On the way to oxidation. No!
Kaiken,
Ultra Malbec 2006 Mendoza 16 Drink 2010-13
Thick and sweet. A
little heavy. It does taste a little Chilean!
Krontiras,
Doná Silvina Reserva Malbec 2006 Luján de Cuyo 16.5 Drink
2009-12
Naughty heavy bottle. Made by Panos Zouboulis who also
makes wine in Greece at La Tour Melas.
Sweet, round and a bit
diffuse with lots of white chocolate notes. Flattering but not that
appetising.
Melipal, Reserve Malbec 2006 Mendoza 16.5?
Drink 2009-13
Spicy nose and very worked, smooth fruit. Appetising
but with a very dry finish. Very smooth if undramatic. May show better
in the long term and with food?
Navarro Correas, Structura
Ultra 2006 Mendoza 15.5 Drink 2009-12
Naughty heavy bottle.
Dense and thick and elderberry aromas. Then the fruit seems a bit dead
on the mid palate. Sour finish and not quite enough juice in the middle.
Nieto Senetiner, Limited Edition Bonarda 2007 Agrelo
15.5 Drink 2009-11
Tempus Two-metal adorned bottle. Sweet and juicy
and more than a hint of treacle toffee. Some slight greenness on the
finish. A little austere. Lacks the flesh and opulence of the Malbecs.
Noemia, J Alberto Malbec 2008 Rio Negro 17 Drink
2009-13
Scented, very direct nose. Extremely polished even if a
little alcoholic. Almost essence of Malbec. Already possible to drink,
so polished are the tannins.
Noemia, Malbec 2007 Rio
Negro 17.5 Drink 2010-16
More complex than the J Alberto with
more refreshment value. More obvious acidity too. More of a
long-distance runner. A bit of a racehorse. More alcohol than in
bordeaux but with much the same structure otherwise.
Poesia
2005 Luján de Cuyo 16 Drink 2008-10
Very sweet, smoky and
overripe. I feel as though this style is a bit like shoulder pads: in
fashion for a short time only. Not appetising enough for me. The acidity
sticks out a bit.
RJ Viñedos, RJ Malbec 2004 Uco
Valley 16.5 Drink 2010-15
One of the oldest wines here. Sweet,
rich, verging on volatile. A bit old fashioned/syrupy style but a great
mouthful of fruit reined in by some tarriness. Pretty good for those who
like mass. But there is still lots of chewy tannin here.
Tapiz, Selección de Barricas 2005 Tupungato 17+ Drink
2009-14
Naughty heavy bottle. Intriguing and complex blend offering
real value. And refreshment. Appetising finish.
Tapiz,
Black Tears Malbec 2006 Uco Valley 16.5 Drink 2009-12
Naughty
heavy bottle. Big, almost overripe nose. I preferred Tapiz' less
dramatic wines myself from memory. Very big and round. Long and
alcoholic. I can't help feeling there was a brett risk with this wine!
Michel Torino, Ciclos Malbec/Merlot 2006 Cafayate 15.5
Drink 2010-14
Spicy nose. Pretty hot nose and then lots of acidity
on the palate. Not really integrated. Still quite a bit of tannin too.
Pascual Toso, Alta Reserva Syrah 2006 Maipú 15
Drink 2008-10
Bright crimson. Sweet at first and then as though
some of the flavour has been boiled out. Messy finish.
Pascual Toso, Magdalena Toso 2005 Mendoza 16 Drink 2007-10
Naughty heavy bottle. Malbec with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Very dark. Nicely balanced blend that seems fully evolved. Fine tannins.
Lively and far from heavy. Sinewy. Quite evolved.
Trapiche,
Single Vineyard Adriana Venturin Malbec 2006 La Consulta 17 Drink
2011-16
Naughty heavy bottle. Very dark crimson. Lively zesty nose.
Dense, thick, tarry, verging on syrupy but (just) not quite - though the
tannins are very drying on the finish. I suspect we are tasting this a
bit early.
Viñalba, Reserva Malbec 2007 Luján de
Cuyo 16.5 Drink 2009-12
Complete and very well balanced. Lively
and round and juicy with an end of smoke and tarmacadam. Fresh finish
even if not the most luscious and long. But a really good-value
introduction to modern Argentina. GV
£9.99 Majestic
Viña Alicia, Cuarzo 2006 Luján de Cuyo 17.5+
Drink 2009-13
95% Petit Verdot! Naughty heavy bottle.
Blackish crimson. Glowing colour. Sweet start and then very lush and
almost malted-milk-like. SO flattering! Well balanced. Quite alcoholic.
But good minerality too. Chewy finish. Interesting! And in good balance.
Dom Vistalba, Tomero Gran Reserva Malbec 2006 Mendoza
17 Drink 2009-12
Naughty heavy bottle. Very dark crimson. Good,
clean, direct scent. Lots of sweetness and freshness. Care has been
taken to preserve fresh fruit here. Zesty. Quite long though the fruit
may not be dense enough to survive all that long, I suspect.
Dom Vistalba, Corte A 2006 Luján de Cuyo 16.5 Drink 2008-10
Naughty heavy bottle. Fully evolved and sweet. Very flattering
already. Sufficient acidity. The only problem seems to me to be a lack
of potential for further development.